Fairford is especially famous among medieval historians for the stainedglass windows of St Mary''s church. They are the only extant set of their period, and, although the ravages of war and time had taken their toll, they have now been completely restored. Meanwhile, keen anglers are drawn to the trout waters of the Coln, and enthusiasts of the aircraft age flock to the annual spectacle of the Royal International Air Tattoo. Around Fairford are some of the most tranquil villages to be found in the kingdom, yet among them there are many ''industrial'' surprises. The Hercules windmill pump, for example, stands sentinel in a lonely field, a remnant of the only sizeable industry in this corner of the Cotswolds. Whatever small changes have occurred over the years, the communities rooted in and around Fairford are the collective heart that keeps this Gloucestershire town special.